Gucci & Ms. Giannini

Gucci has become such a monster business that you wonder if anyone asks, much less demands, that it show more curiosity, more surprise, more refinement in its runway collections than a Frankie and Johnny scenario. Ms. Giannini may not want to give Gucci a mean, sexy edge; that’s fine. But, apart from films and popular music, what does interest and inspire her as a designer? You can’t tell from her runway, and increasingly it’s making the view of the brand seem narrow and formulaic.

Ms. Giannini has established that she likes the Italian fashion for young women in boyish trousers, biker jackets and classic print blouses with a “twist.” This season she offers black checked trousers, contrasting plaid shirts and a stylish black snakeskin jacket. The clothes are nice, as are some of the printed toga dresses and full skirts with origami-like pleats, typically shown with a snug belted jacket.

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